Pork chops gain popularity

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Not many chefs are willing to give away recipes for their own creation, but Ryan Noone’s 10-ounce bone-in French Cut Pork Chop creation is too much to keep secret.

He calls the dish, along with its appropriate sides, “French-onion style with a French onion reduction, gruyère cheese in a veal dummy sauce with some balsamic brussels sprouts with rosemary smashed redskin potatoes.”

Noone has been the head chef at Stone Ridge Golf Club’s Traditions Grille Bar & Restaurant in Bowling Green for six years, plus he oversees the banquet cooking at events hosted or catered by Stone Ridge.

Although someone has likely combined pork tenderloin with French onion soup into one dish before, his creation’s origins began with a sudden revelation.

“I’m always a little bits inspired here — we do some banquet stuff with our pork chops and I always trying to find new and inspiring ways to do things out here, and one of them is people love my French onion soup,” Noone said.

“So, I thought, Man, that hit me one day, so I had some leftover pork chops so let’s throw it together, let’s make a French-onion pork chop for them. The pairings on the side and everything like that just sort of blend with it.”

Noone starts with a Berkshire pork loin, which he will sous vide for about eight hours and bacon-wrap before placing on the grill. He says the “sous vide” process is one of the secrets he’ll let out of the bag.

“Our biggest thing is sous vide products,” Noone said. “It makes life a little bit easier in here, but it makes everything tender and everybody knows that, and everybody just kind of wonders, ‘How did you do that?’”

“Our prime rib is done that way. Sous vide is French for cooking under vacuum, so you vacuum-seal your meat and you water-submerge it under a precise temperature for several hours to break down the meat molecules to make it tender.

“So, it’s like putting it in your oven and slow-cooking it, like you’re just slow cooking it in a water bath, you’ll have precise temperatures throughout the meat.”

Then there is the gruyère cheese and sauce that goes over the pork loin.

“The sauce for it is just a veal demi-glaze, and that’s veal stock reduction with wine. We reduce it and bring it up with butter,” Noone said.

Gruyère cheese, named for a town in Switzerland (Gruyères), is a smooth-melting type of Swiss cheese that’s made from whole cow’s milk and generally cured for six months or longer.

“It is a very flavorful cheese, very robust. That is one of the No. 1 toppers for French onion. It’s nice and tangy,” Noone said.

One of the “pairings” is brussels sprouts, and if you’re not a brussels sprouts kind of person, join the crowd, but Noone says to give his way of preparing them a chance.

“I’ve had a lot of people say that here and they try that, and I’ve turned them different ways. It’s the sweetness of them — once they taste the sweetness of it, I think that is what gets people,” Noone said.

“Because once I started doing brussels sprouts here I can’t keep them on the shelves because everybody loves brussels sprouts here. I do them balsamic or I do them a sweet Asian chili style. I think it’s just the sweetness that covers up any taste that they get.”

Even the smashed redskin potatoes get special care.

“You take fresh rosemary, and you soak it in butter all day long to kind of get it to brown and then you add that in with your smashed redskin potatoes and your cream and butter, mix it all together and gives a nice rich rosemary flavor,” Noone said.

Noone, who spent years as a technician overseeing food quality control for Carrabba’s Italian Grill, says that the pork tenderloin dish likely has multiple ethnic origins.

“This is just some straight down-home cooking,” Noone said. “Everybody is meat and potatoes around here.”

Right now, the pork loin dish is not available every day at Traditions, only as a special, but he plans on bringing it to the menu this spring. Seafood and fried fish dishes have taken over since Lent began, but there is nothing pre-fab about any of the dishes at Traditions.

“Everything is from scratch here,” Noone said. “Everything is all here local — farm raised, and everything is close by. Cleveland is the farthest point. Nothing is frozen.

“Everything is fresh cooked to order. That’s my big inspiration out here is I don’t like box things, I like to have my own way. I get to create my own things and they let me play.”

Speaking of “letting him play,” the Southfield, Michigan native is looking for the opportunity to present Traditions’ dishes and his cooking style to a national audience.

“I’ve had a little bit of culinary school, nothing crazy, and done a lot of apprenticeships through some highly skilled people down in Georgia,” Noone said.

“No one professionally or anything like that, but I always have an inspiration for and will apply for The Cooking Channel-type stuff. I got picked one time, but it just did not fit into my schedule. It still might be out there, so I’ll try that.”

More than anything, he loves to see satisfaction on his customer’s faces.

“I landed in here and just fell in love, and they fell in love with my cooking style,” Noone said.

“I just like cooking food and seeing a smile on people’s face after they enjoy the food. It always makes me happy. Everybody gets fed and everybody needs to leave with a full stomach.”

French Cut Pork Chop

Ingredients

1 10 oz. French cut pork chop

1 slice applewood bacon

1 red onion

1 white onion

2 shallots

1 clove of garlic

Pinch salt and pepper

1 Beef Goulian

1/4 cup shredded gruyère cheese

Directions

Wrap the pork chop with bacon and vacuum seal close and put in a sous vide at 142 degrees for five to seven hours. Remove from gas and grill to desired temperature.

Julienne cut the onions and caramelize them with garlic and add Beef Goulian.

Place onion reeducation on pork chop with cheese into a broiler for two to three minutes until cheese is golden brown.

French Cut Pork Chop

Ingredients

1 10 oz. French cut pork chop

1 slice applewood bacon

1 red onion

1 white onion

2 shallots

1 clove of garlic

Pinch salt and pepper

1 Beef Goulian

1/4 cup shredded gruyère cheese

Directions

Wrap the pork chop with bacon and vacuum seal close and put in a sous vide at 142 degrees for five to seven hours. Remove from gas and grill to desired temperature.

Julienne cut the onions and caramelize them with garlic and add Beef Goulian.

Place onion reeducation on pork chop with cheese into a broiler for two to three minutes until cheese is golden brown.

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